Wine and Roses

Mile 716.5 ~Fernandina Beach,FL . I know some of you who are reading our blog often think this cruise is all wine and roses. See that jump in mileage - that is a jump out on the ocean ! My first. Don did several ocean passages last year when he brought the boat from Maine to Virginia. He loved them. I, however had lots of mixed feelings about trying it. The photo caption is " before the #%&@ hit the fan" So there we are out on the ocean. We went down the Savannah River and were nervous about the ship traffic because where the ICW crosses the river it is very narrow. Below is a photo I didn't zoom in of one of the markers in the river to try to show how narrow it is - remembering the size of the tankers that come up the river. We lucked out and didn't run across any ships until we were out in the ocean but still in the shiping channel as the shallows continue for about 4 miles out beyond the entrance. Don called the ship pilot to let him know we would cross to the red side where there was room for us to be out of the channel. Wow he was big ~ he safely passed us but it's impressive to be a tiny ant and watch thousands of containers go by on one ship. Another photo below shows the ships out a the end of the shipping channel where they wait for their turn to come in.

Our passage from Savanah to Fernandina Beach Florida was about 120 miles - 11:00 AM Thursday to 8:30 AM Friday . It started out very calm , sunny and surprisingly warm
The ocean temperature is about 70 degrees , making the air temperature the warmest we had felt I think since Beaufort, NC .We spent the afternoon enjoying the warmth, enjoying the relaxation of being in 35 feet of water instead of worrying about going aground, and discussing watch – what I needed to learn to be at the helm alone while Don rested. We would do 2 or 2½ hours on and off. Don is a day napper so I took over around 3 in the afternoon while he went below and rested. We have a GPS that has the nautical chart on it showing the water depths and the buoys but our navigation is always with our charts, our cruising guide and the GPS. I was to mark in a notebook our latitude and longitude every 30 minutes to an hour so we would have a good gauge if our electronics failed as to our position. We watched the sunset together at 5:22 ( in our notes ! ) , prepared toasted egg and cheese sandwiches for dinner, then I went below for a nap. Don’s notes show light winds from the WSW at 8:14 ~ at 9:03 he noted the winds had picked up slightly. I came out around 9:00 – we spent time together sorting out the lights we saw. A couple of large fishing boats and two very distant lights farther out in the ocean. At 11:37 I noted the winds were 14 – 16 knots and Don took over watch ~ at 2:00 AM we were at 21 11 32 N 081 08 47 W and that’s where the log ends. Fortunately we are here to tell the rest of the tale. Mind you our boat has an open cockpit and the "log" was a spiral notebook that got soaked. I came out from below and the first thing I said was "wow ! " The night sky was incredible. So many stars – Don told me about seeing orange lights or something high in the sky – they hung for a bit and then fell. He saw this five times.
Don sat out with me for a while because the 2 distant lights were now close , the lead boat close enough to be of concern. We tried to call – in hind site we should have been more generic. We were quite sure from the configuration of lights they were fishing boats. It turns out they were 2 sailboats traveling together ~ they had white lights mid mast making them appear shorter – like a fishing boat. Don finally made radio contact with the lead boat – she let assured us she was aware of us on her starboard and she would watch carefully. Don went below to sleep and 10 minutes later I told him we were on a contact course with them. I called her back and said I think we are headed for the same way point – what is your course and speed? She said she was on a course of 214 degrees, I responding we were on a course of 200 and that I had both sails up – they had no sails up – We now knew we were on a collision course – she responded she would have to consult with the captain who had gone to bed – I immediately backed off our engine as we were motor sailing but let her know I had not adjusted the sails. She finally came back on the radio saying they had sped up and I should tuck behind them – when I tucked behind them ~ mind you we are 8-10 miles off shore – in what felt to me like the middle of the ocean and I found myself less than a boats length from another sailboat ! How the heck?? The winds had picked up and our boat had not slowed much. I quickly fell off the wind 20 degrees to get them out of our way. It just felt surreal to me. I then listened to them call their friends who were 30 minutes or so behind and explain that we were too close – I’m not sure she grasped the reality of the fact we were sailing , she wasn’t and she should have adjusted her course – I’m pretty sure I’m right on that point. Anyway – a little excitement.
I then watched for other lights – feeling like the smallest person in the smallest boat on the biggest body of water – we have an automatic pilot that will hold the tiller for us – I didn’t need to adjust the sails, just keep us on the course Don had mapped out on GPS earlier in the day. I checked the wind speed a couple of times when it seemed really strong and it was 18 –20 – Very doable – not that scary – but by then I was already sea sick. It was around 4:00 AM and I could hear Don below, who I prayed was sleeping even though the boat was now really bouncing up and down through 5 or 6 foot seas, getting sea sick as well.
The challenge begins. I hung in there as long as I could and finally had to call Don to come back out. At around 4:30 he came back out to take the helm. I went below and never recovered. I got so seasick I couldn’t get off the bunk. Don had to sail the boat the rest of the way by himself including into St Mary’s inlet ~ the inlets can be dangerous coming off the ocean ~ at the very least they can be challenging depending on the tide and the winds the pull of currents can be very strong . By now the seas were 6 – 8 feet and the wind speeds were 30 knots. I could feel the current pulling our boat and finally got my head up - Don was quite the site. Hanging onto the mainsheet to hold himself steady ( he couldn’t get the sail down without my help and even with our life jackets and harnesses didn’t want to chance leaving the cockpit) he was freezing – the cold had come with sun rise and land fall, his face was red from the previous day’s sail, intense and concentrated ~ he sure looked like a sailor. A tired, stressed sailor – but a sailor. We called the marina here in Fernandina – this is a great spot – Cumberland Island and St Mary’s , GA are right here as well as this historic beautiful little waterfront town on Amelia Island of Fernandina , Florida.
We rented space on the dock for 2 days. Today is Saturday – we are recovered, spent yesterday and today cleaning the inside and outside of the boat, showers, laundry, walking around town, hired a cab to get to the grocery store, talked to lots of people on the dock. Tiller the hit once again. A cruise ship was parked across the dock from us – great entertainment for a bit – I was happy when they left – just a little too much interest in this crazy life we are living and the cat on a leash – I can’t blame them but enough is enough. Two nights out at a great Italian restaurant we are ready to continue south. Disappointed we aren’t spending time in St. Mary’s and on Cumberland but the cold won’t let up so south we go…….

We are the small fish on the far left of the cruise ship!

I Thought It Was a Costume Ball

Mile 570 ~New River ,SC - very near Savannah, GA ~ We left Beaufort, SC Wed. Nov 18th after just one night because of temps in the high 20's overnight - just too cold and very windy so south we go. Now girls ~ the outfit ~ On top my hot chilli's long underwear, turttleneck, thick flannel fleece hooded sweatshirt, 2 layer North Face Arctic gear ski parka ~ On the bottom - 2 pairs of smart wool socks into which I have tucked my flannel pj's, then jeans, then mens wind pants pulled artfully up over the sweatshirt so not a breath of air can tough my back side. Nice huh?

We were actually warmer today because once we got going the winds weren't nearly as bad as our trip the day before to Beaufort. We wound through rivers, sounds and cuts and canals, mostly smaller water and slightly more protected from the elements.

The day ended in a beautiful anchorage just north of Savannah. Don needs to change the oil - a messy job - we'll tidy up the boat and breathe a bit - 3 in the afternoon and some warmth from the sun. We contemplate going to the Isle of Hope marina and venturing into Savannah for a couple of days. There are no trees, just march land between us and the Savannah River. We can see the container ships - it looks like a small city gliding across the grass. The wind has died , it's quiet, cold but without wind our heater is working well. Plans change in a minute - we have been listening to the weather and talking with Greg who is in St. Mary's GA - to give us the latest reports where we would be coming in off the ocean~it looks right to do an outside trip from Savannah to the St. Mary's inlet bring us to Fernandina , FL in an overnight. We'll sleep on it .......

Now That Was a Lot of Fun !!

Mile 536.3 ~ Beaufort, SC . Tiller says it all. Woke this morning to temps in the 30's - had a fairly restful night as the winds kicked up for only part of the night - we were prepared after a gorgeous sun set and calm evening for the predicted winds. Out here you feel it all, every little gust . We got up a little later than our usual 5:30 and pulled anchor at 8:00 - playing the tides as today was full of cuts between rivers. The rivers for east and west and the cuts south - the water can be very shallow at the end of the cuts or at the bends in the rivers. By the time we got into the first river the wind had kicked up to 20 -25. Sometimes it doesn't sound like a lot - we watch tv and the hurricanes in someone else's back yard - 100 mile an hour winds - I can't even imagine. I don't want to imagine. I don't want to experience that kind of wind. 20 - 30 knots that is blew all day is a lot of wind particularly sitting in the open cockpit of our Westsail 32. by the time we got to the Coosaw River that is quite wide, the waves were crashing over our starboard side - we were able to put the automatic pilot on our tiller and Don went below to warm up and put his storm pants on. We had on our ski gear and believe me we were freezing ! Tonight I feel that burn on my cheeks just like a long day on the slopes. Hmm somehow this just wasn't quite as much fun.

Tiller was afraid of the wind and while Don was below he came out of the boat trying to find refuge and crawled as you can see in our chart book. It didn't last long but I did have my camera out between waves.

We love this town of Beaufort. We spent a wonderful Thanksgiving here last year but are early this year as Thanksgiving is late. We had to sit on the boat for a while after we arrived because the wind gusts were up to 30 knots and we had to be sure the boat was anchored securely and we were far enough from other boats. We finally launched our dingy and went to town, did a little Christmas shopping, had an appetizer dinner at one of the local restaurants. It felt good to walk around town. We didn't partake of the shower facilities because washing my hair and then getting in the dingy with these temps - no thanks.

So with the high winds expected the next several days but the tides high mid day we think we will stick with the icw instead of heading out the Port Royal inlet as we thought me might - and as a PS ~ our friend Greg is safely in St. Mary's Georgia/Fenandina beach, FL but he paid for it. We made the right decision not to go outside. The winds were high, the waves were high and the inlet was hell. Why you ask? So do I ! .......Margaret

these photos get bigger but then you have to push back button - our email is baysiderent@gwi.net and to get the same hair-do just don't shower or brush-use your fingers to part it but be sure not to have a mirror , then twist is anyway that will fit under 2 hats.

Inside ~ Outside

Mile 505 South Endisto River ~ south of Charleston, SC ~ We got up at 5:30 AM this morning – cold – in the 30’s - put on layers of clothes as this was to be the day we headed off shore. Me for the first time, Don for the first time in over a year. One of the first things we do each day is listen to the NOAA weather station – the report had changed from last night – a cold front is blowing through and predictions increased the winds to 25 knots and a small craft warning. We had decided we would only take this 30 hour 180 mile jaunt if all the pieces were perfect. With disappointment we decided to call Greg and Michelle and let them know we didn’t think we would take on the journey given the new weather report. Greg is far more experienced than we are and has a 46-foot boat. The wind predictions were still from a favorable direction so they decided to go on.

We left Dewees creek around 7AM and headed to Charleston together. When we got into the channel at Charleston harbor they went left and we went right. We spent a few moments lamenting our loss and then quickly got to work as a large container ship was entering the channel, coming in from the ocean. It’s a very busy harbor and pleasure craft must be completely aware of all the commercial traffic, ships, barges, ferries , Naval ships and more. It was amazing how fast he went form being a spec on the ocean to a huge high-rise behind us. We scurried across the channel, knowing he would head up the river behind us and not towards the ICW.
We had a good day, getting farther than we anticipated as we waited for a 10:30 Am bridge opening just outside of Charleston. We were alone at the bridge happening and only saw one other vessel all day. We have been travelling is such a pack of boats each day with lots of motorboats passing us and usually 5 or more sailboats together that it felt very different. The sun was out, the sky blue and the winds light but the winter air was old and bit our faces the entire day. There were a few skinny patches along the way but we were graced with high and half tide most of the day as we wound our way down several river sand through several cuts that connected them. Those are the tricky spots and at times the current can be as much as 3 – 4 knots. A 9 hour day – at around 4 we came into our chosen anchorage on the South Edisto River and we were the only ones here. By 5:00 2 other sailboats had come in to anchor for the night.

We were treated to flocks of shore birds silhouetted against a deep red and orange sky. A wonderfully large and majestic great blue heron stood on the river bank 60 feet from our boat and stared. Maybe the cat? Maybe we are an intrusion. Maybe he was just listening for his dinner. For now a peaceful gorgeous spot with a sky absolutely full of stars. The night is supposed to bring us 25 knot winds and more cold. They have predicted 20’s for the morning - holy cow !………..Margaret
Can you spot the kitty cat on the bow? In Dewees we had oyster stew on Argonauta and got to take a few photos our our boat ! A sail in the distance coming down the icw - Heron surveying things in our anchorage.

On The Beach Again

Mile 455~ Dewees Creek, very near Isle of Palms and just north of Charleston harbor ~ post subtitle ~ Never a Dull Moment. In this photo you see 5 stays that go to the mast - if you look real carefully to the left of the most left stay is a white spec - it's a sailboat travelling theICW - we are in our anchorage- can you see all the protection? The few blades of grass that are meant to keep us safe from these winds that won't stop howling.

Saturday 11/15/08~One of those hard frustrating days on the water. We overslept – Friday night because the wind came up strong – we were up often checking our anchor and retrieving a fender we remembered we left over the side. At 4:30 we heard voices – in the anchorages you always pop up if you hear voices. It was Greg – one of the 40 knot gusts had twisted his anchor and he dragged more into the channel that is lined with commercial fishing boats. Not a big problem just not much fun to reset the anchor. We had blissfully not had our radio on and did not know that the big storm passing over with lightning and thunder had also put us under a tornado watch.
Our alarm went off at 5:30 but a quick snooze and suddenly it was 7. Argonauta was already slowly underway – we jumped into action, got our anchor up and got under way- making coffee and breakfast on the road. The current was against us all da meaning we cold only do 4.3 knots or so. The problem can be that there are long stretches where anchoring is not possible. Or there are anchorages that the holding is not good or there is no protection at all from the current wind direction. The winds blew very strong all day and we were headed right into them making our progress even more challenging. Gregg and Michelle were about an hour ahead of us. They called back to let us know some low water spots. Here we were again – going through a series of trick spots but at high tide – constantly calculating where we would be at low and it wasn’t good news.
At 3 Pm – sure enough in a spot where Greg had seen 5 ½ feet to 6 an hour before us – we grounded. A motorboat had also called back to us and tried to guide us through – we made it past 2 red markers that had caused others peril but we were travelling in a narrow river( at dead low ) , there are lots of rivers and creeks that intersect it. At each one there is shoaling and there are a few of these creeks and marshes that are open to the ocean. As the crow flies most of the day we were just 2 miles or less from the ocean. The tide pulls and pushes depending where the nearest outlet or river that flows to the sea is. The currents can be very strong. A Krogen trawler came up behind us – we radioed to try to help him through and he grounded behind as well. Two other motor oats came along and inched their was through reading us the depths as they went. The gave us a wake to try to bump us off – it worked for the Krogen. For us it pushed us quite close to the starboard bank. The Krogen gave us more information as he inched on. Alone again, 3:40 or so we thought we were really screwed. Dark would be coming soon, a storm was coming and we thought we were so close to the bank that we would have to wait quite a while for the tide. Don walked around the decks try to bounce the boat a little with his weight. We did think we felt it move so revved us in reverse (backing a double ender sailboat is a real joke ) ~ we moved – re ran up front, pulled the anchor, we did a circle in reverse the best we could hoping we were far enough into the deeper water – it worked – we were off and thanks to the Krogen slowly crept through where he had found just enough water.
The squall hit hard – I wear glasses and Don had to go below to get his rain gear. I could see the red mark in the distance but that was all – scared ot death I was going to ground us ~ Don got back at the helm but I had to steer him with the GPS – the rain was pelting so hard he could keep his eyes open – after just a few minutes the squall pushed away and it was just raining – we decided to keep on – keepin’ on and make it to our destination good Dewees creek where by the way I spent the worst night of our trip last year !! High winds, opposing tied, wind and waves – Yippee for Dewees !

{ Just as I was finishing this Clunk ! – something hit our boat – it’s Sunday morning we are at anchor, the wind still blowing about 44 degrees – the current here is very strong – we are having a day of rest (that’s what the boys call it ) Don flew off his bunk I grabbed jackets, we started the engine and stood in the cockpit trying to figure out what was wrong. We are in a rare 20 feet of water - We were very close to one of the banks – our anchor line had grabbed a cab pot – the boat just tosses back and forth with such strong wind, current and tide so the crab pot line twisted and twisted and eventually pulled the pot up and it hit the boat. It’s freezing our in the wind but I stood at the helm while Don tried to pull the anchor, cut the line and figure out which way we should go – the current was taking us downwind so we just let it not wanting the get the line he cut from the pot around the prop. We got as far as Argonauta – we are the only 2 here this morning. – put it in gear – went back upstream and anchored – or tried to – it was impossible to stay headed into the wind the current is just too strong so we had to just let the anchor drag and hope it would catch – it did – we think we are set but will keep a close watch all day as the tide changes. Hopefully this afternoon the winds will soften. Greg heard the commotion, came out to tell us just how exciting our life seems to be – we laughed thinking some of you think we are just traveling a ditch and planning our next cocktail party – we could use a day like that ! } Stay tuned - tomorrow - Monday we head out to sea - we will go out the Charleston inlet and come in at Fernandina Beach,FL on Tuesday - estimating 28 hours - my first off shore experience.





our anchorage views of the marsh

Georgetown,SC

Mile 403 Georgetown,SC ~
Mile – Arrived 11/13 Departed for Charleston, SC area 11/15

This is our third visit to Georgeton and we love the place. It’s a funny town in a way – On the water with a paper mill and a steel mill – not so attractive but with a downtown that is very attractive, charming and trying to revitalized. As we walked around we noticed more shops had opened though a nice restaurant where we had eaten lunch had gone out of business. We walked the mile or so to the Piggly Wiggly ( don’t you just love it ! ) and of course then got to see the traffic headed to the mills, the McDonalds and all the other crap that goes with it. But back in the old downtown of Georgetown are blocks of beautifully canopied residential streets with a real mix of old quite run down homes where the poor still live , newly renovated homes and larger stately old homes some of which are law offices or B& B’s but some still one family residences. The canopy is from "live oaks" so called because though they lose their leaves, new ones are right behind so they never lose their foliage and are green year round. We walked to the fish market on the waterfront – bought fresh off the boat shrimp – sautéed it in garlic – Yummmm!


Saturday morning fog








Tiller loves to hop on the dock when we stop for fuel - he's always a big hit and he's very friendly to all the dogs we see and not very nice to cats. Our guess is over 50% of cruisers have a pet aboard.

This is an interesting bridge we had to go through on our way to Georgetown. It's a floating pontoon bridge. Part of the road is actually on a barge, the bridgetender moves the barge to the side, drops a cable and lets the boats through. If you click the photo it does get bigger but then click back or the blog disappears.

downtown Georgetown,SC

Things that go bump in the night (&day)

Mile 345.9~Myrtle Beach, SC ~Tuesday night – our second night at anchor in Wrightsville Beach, NC – the wind came up – I couldn’t sleep there was so much noise. Our dingy was banging against the side of the boat and our chain was dragging against the bob stay. "Heron" is a double ender – meaning it’s pointed at both ends. We often are facing a different way than other boats in the same anchorage. When the tide and the wind are opposing e can be sideways and the chain will rub against the metal stay that goes from our bowsprit to the hull of the boat. There was another bang and thumping and Don figured out that our tiller had come untied as well. Don got at about 3AM to give the dingy more line so it wouldn’t hit the boat and retire the tiller – went back to bed. About ½ hour later Bump ~ I said "Is that the dingy – it sounds louder?", we heard Greg’s voice and scrambled out of the V-berth so see "Argonauta" along side. We thought his anchor dragged but it was just another case of his boat going one way and ours the opposite and they gave a pretty gentle tap for such a big boat. No damage and some laughs in the morning except when Greg couldn’t get the two anchors he put out untwisted from each other.
Wed Nov 11th writing this @ 1:50 PM Shallotte Inlet anchored: "There are times we have to run at low tide – the tide changes every six hours and our days running the boat are usually 6 –10– today we were off at 6:30 had 63 miles to cover. By 12;30 it was low tide. Two of the trickiest spots on the ICW ( there are actually quite a few ) . The first one ~ Lockwoods Folly we hit an hour ago at exactly low tide – the boat "Onward" in front of us went hard aground,(the bottom is sandy ) and was cross ways in the channel. A local barge was trying to pull him off . We sneaked our way through with some shouting help from the local fisherman who we anchored in the channel. The interesting thing is that low tide at Shallottes Inlet – one hour up the road has low tide exactly one hour later than the Folly – We are a group of 5 boats and proved that gettng through the inlet at dead low can’t be done. "Tiana" a 6’ draft boat in the lead went hard aground –we were next and hanging back to see what he said – we had also received help from people who went through yesterday – one of whom went aground. Greg wanted us to inch through – we told him go ahead – he did and I have the lovely photo of him aground. Greg’s boat is on the right "Tiana " is on the left – if you call it 9 and 3 o’clock – the channel is @ 12;00 so you can see they are not moving. One of the boats behind us a 31’ Southern Cross called "Star" went chugging on with his sail up – we told him we powered down and it’s shallow ahead with boats aground – he only draws 4 ½ feet - he could have cared less and he poled a bit when he hit ground with the sail up ! Why he could listen to what the rest of doing – we can’t figure. We are now waiting for high tide – we were able to drop our anchor as did "Onward" behind us in plenty of water. "Onward" free from his grounding at the Folly was happily in his dingy reading the bottom depths to help us all get through. Greg and Michelle are bouncing around on the sand bar waiting for higher tide and the Southern Cross who would be the first one off has called Sea Tow - very entertaining and a beautiful spot – 16 more miles to go which can take us as much as 3 hours – gets dark at 5:30 so we are hoping the tide moves right along."
Greg and the southern Cross floated off after about 40 minutes and squeaked through with about 6 feet of water. With the captain of Onward still in his dingy we lifted anchor and tried to thread the needle only to find ourselves on the sand bar. Don tried to back off and it wouldn’t go. The dingy was in front of us and he was reading 7’ of water so we powered up and ere able to pull across the sand bar and around the buoys – Tiana got stuck one more time but then got off – Onward now knew the zig and the zag and led a new comer through and we all met up at the next bridge and had a good laugh.
We have seen a lot of commercial traffic and always hav to give way to them – these large shrimp boats take up a huge portion of the channel ! We pulled into a marina in Myrtle Beach at just dark. It’s fun being out as the sun sets because it is so pretty but it was along day and it was hard to see the small channel markers in the little marina we were going to. We had just time to shower and do laundry – then to bed to be up early for the next long day from Myrtle Beach to Georgetown SC…… Margaret

Is that a giraffe ?

Mile 283.2~Wrightsville Beach, NC
You just never know what you will see out here. We had a nice and pretty easy day from mile Hammock Bay to Wrightsville Beach. We lucked out with the current all the way and arrived by 12:15 – an hour and a half less than it took us last year.
Coming out of mile hammock was a little tricky. We got up at 5AM to leave at first light which here is about 6 – 6:15 but we did not want to be first. Others were up and waiting and not wanting to be first as well. Finally a beautiful boat called a Cabo Rico – headed out at about 6:35 – we followed a second Cabo Rico and a 40’ boat followed us. The lead boat ended up being quite a ways ahead of the 3 of us. On the first corner there are 3 red markers – they need to stay on the right – at the same time you need to make a long sweeping turn to the left – it’s confusing because there are also green markers on the right but they mark a different channel. The boat in front of us was confused and I was on deck with the binoculars trying to sort out the numbers so we would take the markers in order. A boater came on the radio and gave guidance – I think it was a motorboat we saw in the other channel. After we got around the corner safely in about 7 feet of water - we knew we were to get back in the middle of the perceived channel. This can be tricky because if we are in a body of water – a ¼ mile wide – the ICW channel may only be yards wide. Sometimes we have green and red markers yards apart and sometimes ½ mile or more. Sometimes we are to go near the markers and sometimes stay off. All part of the challenge and information sharing amongst boaters travelling the same route. Moments later Don noticed the lead boat sideways in the channel – he was too far to the red but was able to back himself off. It made it easy for the rest of us to figure out where to go - or where not to go !
Beautiful sunny day in Wrightsville - we took a long walk at the ocean and head to Tower 7 for dinner at 5:00 – Monday night - $1.00 tacos and $1.00 PBR’s (pabst blue ribbon) - $12.00 later We had had a great meal. Tonight we will eat there as well and treat ourselves to their $2.00 fish taco special !! The owner was a life guard in Hawaii and his post was Tower 7 – they show surf movies on the big screen – fun place – inexpensive even at regular price and really good food. I think our 6th time eating there.
Today – a down day – cool – the cabin was 52 when we got up ~ but the sun is bright. We walked to the yacht club for a shower using our reciprocal privileges; getting a little work done , will take another beach walk and get to be early for our day tomorrow – we had hoped to go out the Cape Fear river and into the ocean but the weather once again is not right so we’ll stick to the ICW as we want to keep moving. Our friends Greg and Michelle are once again anchored next to us – they stayed in Beaufort and extra day – spent overnight on the ocean to get here at 7 AM today. Off to Little River South Carolina !……..Margaret
Heron is boat farthest to left

Semper Fidelis

Mile 244.5 ~Mile Hammock Bay an anchorage allowed by the marines ( well why not given what I paid for income tax last year ?) Camp LeJeune – Uneventful ! 6:50 AM to 2:10 PM – easy day. That is the good news – this stretch from Beaufort to Mile Hammock was where we went hard aground last year. Today - Sunny , breezy as the weather report likes to say – though initially the Bogue sound was dead calm. It was funny waiting out the gale last week – as we listened to election results the weather person kept saying "breezy" – yeah – except if your are living on a boat – windy is the word I would use or don’t be so foolish as going out in a boat – but if you just need to go in your car to the grocery store – it’s breezy – what’s the big deal ?–
Bogue sound is about 2 miles wide but with just one feet of water inmost of it. At the end of the sound as it narrowed with sand dunes on the ocean side we were treated to a pod of dolphins playing in our bow wake. One swam along side us for quite a ways, fully coming out of the water several times and staying the same speed as us. We will see lots of dolphins and can’t help but be charmed each time.

Sometimes we are just inches from going aground and sometimes a few feet – I got a kick out of the guy in waders not far from our 5 ½ foot keel boat in the waterway today . Sunday is a busy day – so many boats out today and lots of fisherman – fun to have entertainment. We spent most of today just a minute’s walk from the ocean – skinny water as they say…….but who’s walking……at least this year the Marines weren’t doing maneuvers – last year our mast almost got touched by a helicopter plane thing doing touch and goes - just great !

"The Marine Corps adopted Semper Fidelis as its official motto in 1883 (Semper Fidelis is also the title of the official musical March of the Marine Corps). Translated from Latin, Semper Fidelis means "Always Faithful." …….. Margaret

that's the ocean out there !

Beaufort and the promise of a shower !

Friday Nov 7, 2008 Beaufort,NC Mile 203 - cell service - so much to do - laundry, showers, Bayside Rentals ! more later !
...We had the best time - nothing fancy but last year we stopped over in Beaufort and it was cold and windy - this year it was sunny, we dug out our shorts. Our wonderful friend Norma (PHOTO:Rita - another Westsailor ~ Wayne & Norma - left to right)picked us up on shore and took us to their home for showers, wonderful smoked Gouda cheese , beer, out for pizza with other boating friends, John & Georgia. Just a wonderful warm welcoming. We spent Sunday doing laundry , using Wayne's car for a West Marine run and grocery shopping. Then back to Wayne & Norma's home for the University of North Carolina football game and for me ~ Bayside Rentals work on wifi ! A treat and quite a few hours of much needed catching up. Norma's chili put a wonderful exclamation point on a fruitful day.

Wayne and Norma used to own a Westsail 32 and lived aboard full time exploring much more than the eastern seaboard as we are doing. They are happily aground again and Wayne who works at the city docks part time for amusement - exclaimed to us that he is tired of boats, and all that goes with it. He is is going to take his oars, put them over his shoulders, head west and when someone finally says - "what are those?" he is going to stop and build his house in that spot ! :) At any rate Wayne we are happy you sailed and owned your Westsail and that Don couldn't resist meeting you at Yankee Point (2002?)and as they say the rest is history .

The photos (click on 'em- they get bigger but if you don't push back key the site disappears - I need to figure that out ! ) shows the village of Beaufort from our mooring that we rented. Not a large town but a few nice shops and wonderful parade of incredible boats at the town docks all in clear view of our home for 2 nights.

Off to camp LeJeune in the morning.... Margaret